A Tuscan Dressage Escape: My Week at Il Paretaio Riding School in Florence, Italy

There are some trips that feel like a holiday, and then there are trips that feel like they quietly put something back into you.

My visit to Il Paretaio, a beautiful dressage riding school tucked away in the hills of Tuscany near Florence, was exactly that. It was a week of horses, sunshine, learning, wine, laughter, and precious time with my husband Wayne, far away from the usual whirl of our busy lives at Strathbury’s.

From the moment we arrived in Italy, it felt as though the pace of life began to soften. Before heading to the riding school, we stopped in the mountains for lunch, and it turned into one of those simple, perfect moments you know you will remember for years. We sat with a view stretching out in front of us, sharing a proper Florentine steak cooked over an open fire, with a glass of wine and nowhere else we needed to be for a while.

It was rustic, relaxed, and wonderfully Italian. Just me, Wayne, a spectacular view, and a little pocket of time to breathe.

After lunch, we carried on up into the hills, winding through vineyards and countryside that looked almost painted into place. As we climbed higher, we could see the gorgeous buildings of Il Paretaio appearing in the distance. The road narrowed, then became an unmade track, and suddenly there it was: a beautiful, rustic Tuscan house surrounded by rolling views, with excellent riding facilities and horses at the heart of it all.

We were warmly welcomed by Natalie and Pietro, and from the beginning there was such a lovely feeling about the place. It did not feel polished in a cold or commercial way. It felt authentic, lived-in, and full of character. The sort of place where the stone walls, the horses, the views and the people all seem to belong together.

Once we had settled into our gorgeous rustic room, with views rolling across Tuscany, it was time for my first lesson.

I rode Coca, a beautiful mare with real talent and the loveliest disposition. She was sensitive, elegant and incredibly rewarding to ride. That first lesson immediately reminded me why I had wanted to come. There is something very special about stepping away from your normal environment and allowing yourself to become a student again. No distractions, no rushing, just you, the horse, and the work.

Each day, I had two lessons, focusing on mastering the foundations of dressage. It was not about tricks or rushing towards the flashy bits. It was about feel, balance, timing, straightness, softness, and learning to ride with more clarity. Those basics are everything, and spending time refining them in such a focused environment was exactly what I needed.

I also had the pleasure of riding Lenny, a wonderful bay gelding who gave me a completely different feel and helped me work on my confidence and consistency in another way. Riding different horses is such a valuable part of learning. Each one asks a slightly different question of you, and if you listen properly, they teach you so much.

Wayne, as always, was my biggest supporter. While I was riding, he would watch, take videos, and help me look back at the lessons afterwards. It was lovely to have him there, not just as company, but as part of the whole experience. He understands how much the horses mean to me, and having him by the arena made it feel even more special.

After the morning lessons, we would head out for lunch at local restaurants. Nothing fancy in the showy sense, just proper, authentic Italian food. Pizza, pasta, local wine, and that wonderful feeling of eating somewhere that has not been designed for tourists but simply exists because good food matters.

Then we would return to the villa, find a spot with a beautiful view, set up our laptops and do a bit of work. It sounds strange, perhaps, to work while away, but somehow in Tuscany even opening a laptop feels less painful. There was something quite special about answering emails with vineyards in the distance and horses nearby.

In the evenings, we split our time between eating at the communal table at Il Paretaio and heading out to local restaurants. The communal dinners were a real highlight. We met such an interesting and eclectic group of fellow riders from different places, all brought together by the same love of horses. There is something lovely about sitting around a table with people you have only just met, talking about riding, horses, travel and life over good food and wine.

Of course, we could not be that close to Florence without seeing a little of it. Before our flight home, we spent the morning exploring the city. Florence has a way of making even a short visit feel rich. The buildings, the history, the little streets, the coffee, the quiet grandeur of it all. It was the perfect ending to the trip.

But the real gift of the week was what I brought home with me.

I came back feeling more confident, more inspired, and full of ideas I wanted to try with the Strathbury’s horses we are currently producing. Working on the foundations in such detail reminded me how much good riding is built from patience and feel. It gave me a burst of motivation, not just to improve myself, but to bring even more thought and softness into the work we do with our horses at home.

All in all, it was an amazing experience filled with so many of the things I love most: my husband, travelling, horses, learning, beautiful places, good food and a little bit of breathing space.

Il Paretaio gave me more than just a riding holiday. It gave me time to reset, reconnect and return home with a full heart, a clearer mind and a renewed excitement for the horses waiting for me at Strathbury’s.

And honestly, that is a pretty perfect kind of trip.